Molokhia and Pork Mince Curry, made with SN1

In the mouth, the slippery body of the molokhia fills the gaps between the grains of mince. There is liquid here, but spoon it over rice and it will not run away to the edge of the plate.

Symphony No.1 is a single sachet holding thirteen spices. In hot oil the toasted note of cumin comes first, and behind it arrives the dry citrus of coriander. The green scent of molokhia leans towards that citrus. Then pork fat goes in, and the greenness rounds off. The set is put together so that it happens in that order. Not one of the thirteen spices carries heat.

The molokhia goes into the pan two minutes before the heat goes off. Simmer it longer and the mucilage unravels into the whole sauce, and the spoon turns heavy.

The water is 150 ml rather than the usual 200 ml. Both the mince and the molokhia give off liquid of their own, so we hold back from the start.

Total time: about 55 min

Ingredients (Serves 4)

• SN1 / starter spices (the whole-spice sachet): 1 sachet
• SN1 / powder spices (the ground-spice sachet): 1 sachet
• Pork mince: 300 g
• Molokhia: 2 bunches (about 150 g trimmed)
• Onion: 1
• Garlic: 2 tsp (about 1–2 cloves)
• Ginger: 2 tsp (about 1–2 knobs)
• Tinned tomatoes (whole): 1 tin, 400 g
• Water: 150 ml
• Salt: 1 tsp
• Oil: 3 tbsp (use whichever oil you like. For this recipe we recommend rice bran oil or light sesame oil)

On a day when there is no molokhia on the counter, 150 g of the frozen kind works too. It has already been blanched, so thaw it, squeeze out the water and add it as it is at step 8.

Preparation

1. Grate the garlic, then the ginger, in that order. If you have no grater, chop them finely instead.
2. Slice the onion thinly, across the grain.
3. Pick the leaves of the molokhia off the stems. Cut only the tender part of the stem — where the knife goes straight through — into 3 cm lengths, and discard the lower part where the blade stops.
4. Bring a pan of water to the boil, cook the stems for 1 minute and the leaves for 30 seconds, then drop them into cold water. Squeeze out the water thoroughly, then chop coarsely with a knife. The finer you chop, the stronger the mucilage, so stop while the leaves still hold some shape. Water left in them is what makes a watery sauce.
5. Open the starter spices (the whole-spice sachet) and split the cardamom pods lengthways with scissors or a knife — it lifts the bright side of the aroma.

Instructions

1. Pour the oil (3 tbsp) into a pan over low heat, and once it has warmed, tip in the starter spices (the whole-spice sachet).
2. When the mustard seeds (the black ones) begin to crackle and pop, add the grated garlic and ginger and fry for about 30 seconds, stirring them through the spices.
3. Add the onion, stir it well into the spices, then turn the heat to high and cook for about 12 minutes, adding a splash of water often, until deep golden brown.

   How far you cook the onion changes the finished flavour enormously. When a curry comes out watery, or the tomato tastes too sharp, or the depth feels thin, the single biggest cause is moving on to the next step before the onion has turned deep golden brown. Always cook it for 12 to 15 minutes, frying it properly until it is deep golden brown.
   The points to watch are:
   • Keep the heat at medium to high
   • Spread the onion evenly across the pan and leave it, then stir; spread it evenly and leave it, then stir; and repeat
   • When you stir and feel the onion catching on the base of the pan, add a splash of water, often (in our experience, about 2 tbsp of water at a time, roughly five times in all)
   That splash of water carries the savoury depth released by the cooking through the whole pan, and lets you reach deep golden onions without burning them. Letting it catch a little and then adding water actually draws out more of that depth.

4. Once the onion is deep golden brown, turn the heat to medium and add the pork mince (300 g). Break it up with a wooden spatula and fry for about 5 minutes, until the colour has changed and fat is floating on the base of the pan. Driving off the moisture here means the pan will not be beaten by the water in the molokhia later.
5. Add all of the powder spices and stir them through, thinking of it as cooking the powder itself.
6. Push the ingredients to one side of the pan, add the tinned tomatoes, crush the whole tomatoes well, then stir everything together.
7. Add the water (150 ml) and the salt (1 tsp). Bring it to the boil, then turn the heat low and simmer for about 12 minutes, uncovered.
8. Add the molokhia and simmer for about 2 minutes over low heat. The more you stir, the more the mucilage comes out, so lift it from the base of the pan only two or three times, in big movements.
9. Take the pan off the heat, put the lid on and leave it for 2 minutes. This is where the scent of the split cardamom moves into the sauce.
10. Taste at the end and adjust the salt. Add a pinch at a time and work towards the seasoning you like — that final adjustment is what makes it taste good. What you add here will be around 1/2 tsp. No salt went into blanching the molokhia, so it takes more than you would think.

Cardamom and cassia bark are not usually eaten, so lift them out when you come across them.

The next day the mucilage has settled into the sauce and it thickens a little. When you reheat it, add about 2 tbsp of water and go slowly over low heat. Over high heat, the mucilage means the base of the pan catches first.

Inspice spice curry spice sets contain none of the usual sources of heat — chilli, cayenne pepper or chilli powder — so please add heat to your own taste.

If you want more heat, we recommend HOT SPICE “Savoury Heat”. It is a blend that adds heat and savour together, so instead of simply turning the dish hot, it sharpens the outline of the flavour while the curry keeps its aroma. Do not put it in the pan — serve the curry into bowls and shake it over a little at a time. That way everyone can share one pan, even those who would rather not have the heat.